Kate delves into the world of Orange wine and discusses why she thinks its more than just a passing trend.
Somewhat of a misnomer, orange wine actually has nothing to do with the citrus fruit of the same name, instead it merely refers to the wines colouring. ‘Orange wine’, ‘amber wine’ or even ‘skin contact’ wine as it’s sometimes known, is a type of white wine that is produced by leaving the juice to macerate with the grape skins/stems for a period of time, resulting in a richer coloured ‘orange’ hued liquid that has a unique flavour profile that sets it apart from white wine, and often times more tannin. To put it simply, orange wine is a white wine that is made like a red.
Whilst orange wine may appear to be a bit of a fad trend due to it’s rising popularity in more recent years and it’s regular sightings on the wine lists of trendy city based bars it actually has an incredibly rich history.
The Georgians have been producing amber wines or ‘karvisperi ghvino’ for thousands of years. The grapes being crushed and left to ferment on their skins in Qvevri (amphora clay pots) which are buried in the ground and left to macerate for at least 6 months.
With all this history it may come as a surprise that the term ‘orange wine’ was actually only coined as recently as 2005 by UK based wine merchant David Harvey.
Harvey was fed up with the lack of name to categorise something which is so “visually, aromatically and structurally divergent from white wines” * and believed it should be categorised by it’s colour ie. white, red rose rather than its grape or wine making technique to give it the best chance of not only standing apart from, but competing with its other coloured counterparts.
Depending on the level of skin contact orange wines range from being dangerously easy drinking to something that little bit more challenging. One could argue that they’re the marmite of the wine world – you’re either going to love them or hate them. Either way, they certainly can’t be described as boring! Personally I’m a big fan, and think they’re a great option not only for the summer months but for those looking for a middleman between a red and a white.
If you’ve never tried an orange wine before, and want to see what all the fuss is about then now is your chance. I’ve selected a few favourites both new and old.
* ORIGINS OF MODERN USAGE OF ORANGE WINE, by David Harvey (edited May 2016 for Tree)
Chateau Saint Cyrgues, Salamandre 12.5% £11.99
NIMES, FRANCE
This is another super approachable orange wine for those wanting to dip their toes into the world of orange without breaking the bank. Made from 100% Grenache Blanc with only 10 days spent on the skins, the tannin is subtle on this offering leading to a really easy drinking , clean style of orange wine that steers clear of too much ‘funk’. On the palate there’s a lovely floral note with some grip from the time spent on skins and enticing flavours of peach and summer fruits.
Baglio Antico Bianco Catarratto 13% £13.99
SICILY, ITALY
This 100% Catarratto orange wine is made from grapes grown in the Sicilian hills located to the west of Palermo. This has tangy grapefruit and ripe peach aromas with marmalade, spicy ginger notes on the palate. Bold in flavour, this would stand up really well against fish curries. Due to the wine being unfiltered expect an opaque hue in the glass and some bottle sediment.
Fattoria di Vaira Vincenzo Bianco 12% £12.59
MOLISE, ITALY
A super approachable orange natural wine – one to convert the masses. It’s lightly hazy in the glass with notes of tangerine, sweet peach and quince. On the palate there’s a lovely balance of tartness and minerality. Refreshing, with the slightest touch of ‘funk’ to keep things interesting.
Emiliana Animalia 13% £11.99
D.O. VALLE DE CASABLANCA, CHILE
Aromas of ripe stone fruits, figs and dried apricot on the nose. Warm sandy textural noise characteristic of wine from hot dry country. The palate follows with more dried apricot. Clever, tasty stuff from Emiliana.